Starting Worm Composting: A How-To Guide

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Worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, is a process of using worms to break down organic waste into nutrient-rich compost. To get started with worm composting, you will need a worm bin, bedding materials such as shredded newspaper or cardboard, and redworms (Eisenia fetida or Lumbricus rubellus). Place the bedding and worms in the bin, and add small amounts of food waste regularly. Make sure to keep the bin moist and well-aerated. The worms will eat the organic waste and produce compost, which can be used as a natural fertilizer for plants. Worm composting is a sustainable and efficient way to reduce waste and produce nutrient-rich compost.

Composting is great, but worm composting is even better. Don’t throw away your apple peels, coffee grounds, and spinach leftovers. Instead, recycle them naturally by putting them into a worm composting bin. The worms will turn these scraps and yard waste into a nutrient-rich material that’s perfect for gardening. Worm bins can even be kept indoors, as they are not messy or stinky, and don’t take up much space. To get started with worm composting, you’ll need the right type of worm, a lidded bin, appropriate bedding, and a cool, dry place to store the bin away from direct sunlight.

Worm Composting Basics

A worm composting environment decomposes organic matter faster than a traditional compost heap. Worm composting, also known as vermiculture or vermicomposting, uses special worms to break down organic matter into compost that’s beneficial for soil, gardens, and flowerbeds. Traditional composting breaks down organic matter through chemical reactions that create heat as the matter decomposes, resulting in compost that’s rich in nutrients. In contrast, worm composting relies on worms to eat the food scraps and plant matter in the compost pile, transforming them into worm castings that are full of nutrients essential for the soil. Worm composting is also quicker than traditional hot composting, taking only one-third of the time to break down the same amount of matter.

The Right Worms for the Job

Red wiggler worms (Eisenia foetida) are the best species for vermicomposting. These worms typically stay within the top 6 inches of soil, making them ideal for shallow worm bins. Out of the thousands of earthworm species, only a few are suitable for worm bins. Red wigglers and a few other breeds are available from worm farms that sell vermiculture products. For a basic worm bin with at least one square foot of surface area when filled with materials, order one pound of red wigglers, which equals approximately 1,000 worms. The earthworms or nightcrawlers commonly found in US yards are not good for composting since they prefer to burrow several feet deep, mixing top layers of soil with more compact layers beneath it. These large worms are better for aerating compacted soil since they create deep holes as they burrow.

Creating Your First Worm Bin


You can easily make your own worm bin with a flexible plastic storage tub or bin. A container that holds 10 to 18 gallons with a depth of 10 to 20 inches is ideal. Make sure to drill holes for drainage and aeration near the top perimeter of the bin and in the bottom for liquid runoff. It’s best to keep the bin in a shaded area to protect the worms from excessive heat and direct sunlight.

While pre-made worm bins are available, making your own is a great option. Choose an opaque, dark-colored plastic tub with a lid and built-in handles for easy moving. Don’t make the bin too heavy, unwieldy or too deep. It’s important to make sure the location is suitable for the bin, such as in a garage, under a deck or in a basement.

Before you start using the bin, clean it thoroughly to remove any chemical residues. The worms require a temperature between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, so make sure to place the bin in an appropriate location. Remember, too much sunlight can overheat the bin and harm the worms.

Preparing the Worm Bin


To prepare the worm bin, add damp shredded office paper or newsprint as bedding for the worms. This will allow them to burrow and create tunnels for air flow. Make sure the bedding is not too wet or too dry. Add food scraps, such as vegetable peels, coffee grounds and eggshells, to the bin. Avoid adding meat, dairy or oily foods as they can attract unwanted pests and create unpleasant odors.

It’s important to maintain the moisture level in the bin, as worms need a damp environment to survive. Sprinkle water over the bedding and food scraps as needed, but be careful not to drown the worms. Cover the bin with the lid, but don’t drill holes in it as it can let in too much light and harm the worms.

Remember to regularly check the bin and remove any uneaten food or dead worms. The liquid runoff collected in the bottom of the bin, also known as worm tea or compost tea, is full of nutrients and can be used to benefit soil. With proper care and maintenance, your worm bin will produce nutrient-rich compost for your garden and reduce waste in your household.

To prepare the worm bedding, shred black-and-white newspaper, brown paper bags or regular office paper into 1/2-inch strips. The bedding should allow for airflow while maintaining some moisture. Other non-toxic options include coconut coir, brown fallen leaves or brown corrugated cardboard, which can be mixed together. Glossy papers should be avoided. Soak the bedding in clean water for five minutes, then wring it out so it’s damp like a sponge. Fluff up the bedding and fill the bottom half of the worm bin. Add a few handfuls of healthy garden soil, broken into small bits and mixed in with the bedding. For pre-made worm bins, follow the instructions provided.

When introducing the worms to their new home, gently place them on top of the bedding and let them wriggle down on their own. Wait a few days before adding produce scraps, then add a shallow layer of food matter that does not contain citrus, dairy or meat. Fruit bits, leafy greens, tea bags, coffee grounds and eggshells can all serve as food for the worms. Break the items up into small pieces and bury them completely with slightly damp shredded newspaper or existing bedding and dirt to prevent fruit flies and odors.

Check the bin every few days to see if the food scraps have been eaten. If so, add more scraps and fresh, damp bedding. If scraps remain, do not add more as they may eventually rot. Worms typically eat up to two pounds of food scraps per week. Touch the surface of the bedding to check for dryness and spritz with water if necessary. If too wet, mix in more dry bedding and leave the lid off for a few hours.

To harvest the worm compost, feed the worms only on one side of the bin for a couple of weeks, then remove the vermicompost from the unfed side. Replace with fresh bedding and repeat the process on the other side. Look for worm eggs and place them back in the fresh bedding.

You can store worm castings in a container or use them right away by mixing them into the soil in your garden or around trees and shrubs. If your worm bin becomes too crowded with worms, you can start a new bin with some of the extra worms or give them to your friends. These worms can also be added to an outdoor compost heap or released into the garden to improve soil quality with their castings.

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