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Laying laminate flooring is a simple process that can be done by following a few steps:
1. Prepare the floor: Make sure the subfloor is clean, dry, and level. Remove any existing flooring or carpet.
2. Acclimate the laminate: Allow the laminate planks to acclimate to the room for 48 hours before installation.
3. Install the underlayment: Lay down a foam or cork underlayment to provide cushioning and sound absorption.
4. Start laying the first row: Begin in a corner of the room and lay the first plank with the tongue facing the wall. Use spacers to maintain a Вј inch gap along the walls.
5. Continue with subsequent rows: Connect the planks by inserting the tongue into the groove, and use a tapping block and mallet to ensure a tight fit.
6. Trim and finish: Trim the last row to fit, leaving a Вј inch gap. Install baseboards or quarter round molding to cover the expansion gap.
By following these steps, you can easily lay laminate flooring and transform the look of your space.
If you enjoy puzzles, you will find laying laminate flooring to be a fun challenge. It involves fitting together planks with tongues and grooves, similar to a jigsaw puzzle. However, it is crucial to remember that the planks must face the same direction to lock into place, and you cannot rotate them. This will prevent errors in measuring and cutting, which could result in material waste and added expenses.
Choosing the Right Location for Installation
Laminate flooring is sensitive to moisture and should not be installed in areas with humidity levels exceeding 60 percent. Excessive moisture causes the planks to swell and push against each other, creating raised edges that cannot be repaired. It is essential to check the product specifications for moisture requirements and test the subfloor with a moisture meter if necessary. Laminate flooring is not recommended for below-grade installations, such as basements, as many manufacturers do not provide warranties for such applications.
Preparing the Subfloor and Installing Underlayment
Laminate flooring can be installed on plywood, oriented strandboard, particleboard, or concrete. The subfloor must be level and free of bumps or depressions that could destabilize the edges and cause the planks to separate. Sanding or floor-leveling compound may be required if the subfloor is an old concrete pad or if an existing floor covering has been removed. A moisture barrier underlayment is necessary when installing laminate flooring on concrete, and it is recommended for plywood, especially on the ground level. Underlayment can also provide sound and thermal insulation. Most laminate dealers sell underlayment that guards against moisture and provides insulation. Installing underlayment may even be required to validate the manufacturer’s warranty.
Laying the First Row
Most rooms are not square, which can make laying the first row of laminate flooring challenging. Unlike hardwood flooring, which can be laid in the middle of the floor to compensate for angled walls, laminate should be laid against a wall, unless it continues from another room. A simple technique can be used to lay the first row compensating for out-of-square walls. Measure the distance between the walls parallel to the floor at both ends of the room and calculate the difference. Mark the subfloor half this distance from the starting wall at the corner of the widest part of the room, snap a chalk line from this mark to the opposite corner, and lay the first row along this line.
To avoid having to cut a steep angle on the last plank, which can look unsightly, it is recommended to use a technique that splits the difference between the angled walls of the room. Spacers should be used when laying the first row to create an expansion gap and ensure the correct distance between the planks and the wall. The width of the spacers may need to differ depending on the angle.
When installing laminate flooring, it is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions as different products may use different interlocking systems and installation techniques. Staggering the end joints of the planks is recommended to create a random pattern and prevent detectable patterns like H-patterns or step-patterns. The minimum stagger distance should be 6 inches, but wider planks may require more. A tapping block should be used to seat the planks together and a pull bar can help draw the last plank into the joint.
To account for the expansion and contraction of the planks due to changing humidity, an expansion gap of 1/4 to 5/16 inches is recommended. Spacer blocks or scrap wood should be used to maintain the gaps throughout the installation, and they should be removed once the installation is complete.
How to Cut Laminate Planks
If you want to shorten or narrow a laminate plank, you can use a circular saw, jigsaw, miter saw, or laminate-flooring cutter. However, to prevent chipping the edges, cut from the backside of the plank. For curved cuts or notches, a jigsaw or handsaw can be used.
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Дерябин Андрей Николаевич/iStock/GettyImages
Laying Laminate Flooring Around Obstacles
When laying laminate flooring around posts, it’s best to plan the layout so that two planks meet at the post. Cut half the shape of the post from one plank and half from the other, leaving the required expansion gap, and snap the planks together. If a post is in the middle of a plank, cut the plank across its width, cut the post shape from the two pieces, and glue the end joints together. To lay flooring around a toilet flange or a cabinet, make rounded cutouts to fit around them.
How to Lay the Last Row of Laminate Flooring
When you get to the opposite wall, you may have a narrow gap to fill. Cut each plank to fit the gap, rip-cutting it to width with a circular saw or jigsaw. Cut off the grooved edge of the plank, leaving the tongue edge intact to click into the second-to-last row. The cut edges of the last row will be held down by the baseboard.